Martinique, just 50 miles long by 20 miles wide, is an island of contrasts - from the serenity of the high mountains and deep tropical forests in the rural north to the more animated scenario of the south, where the capital, Fort-de-France, presents a lively melee of narrow old colonial streets, colourful street markets, some unexpectedly sophisticated shops, and a host of palate-tempting restaurants. In the south, too, a coastline of coconut grove-edged beaches and sweeping bays adds another appealing dimension. And virtually wherever you go, you'll hear echoes of Martinique's irresistible pulse-beat, the beguiling rhythm of the 'beguine'.

• SOFITEL BAKOUA